09 August 2010

Do Singaporeans really understand the essence of fine food?

Having worked under 2 Michelin starred chefs and exposed to countless produce in my not-very-substantial kitchen stints as compared to older professional chefs, I have come to realize one similarity- the constant critique of local diners.

Diners in Singapore have been "pampered" so very much in many ways. Allow me to elaborate- Most diners that come to these two restaurants are usually expatriates or very well to do Singaporeans. The expats very most often do not complain or give problems. However, the locals are the ones that bitch-fit about almost everything they experience. No matter how flawless service, food and the overall dining experience was, nit-picking would get them some complimentary food, drinks or room-stay(s).

For example, Marina Bay Sands most recently brought top maestros of various cuisines together. Practitioners of what they call: "flawless cuisine/dinner service". Whereby the one of the holy grails of the Culinary World - Michelin Guide, awards stars to these ladies and gentlemen. These individuals along with their team, created dinner services so enjoyable and perfect, they wear a badge of honor all culinarians vie for.

However, when Singaporeans with a deeper-than-usual pocket decided to dine at these restaurants, they complained that prices were too high, service was not up to standard, food was mediocre and what not. But they do not understand why. Why was food "mediocre", why were they priced "too high"? Forget about profit making, forget about service. But think- why do we have to pay so much for these dishes?
Simple- These kitchens are mostly produce driven. And when I say produce driven, it simply means, these chefs are there not to create flavours, however, they are there to push the boundaries of accentuating the pure, clean flavours, to match flavours- to simply allow diners to savour what a true pea taste like, a true tomato taste like. These ingredients are there to complete the dish, not there to be a flavour carrier of a heavy sauce/glaze/marination. All produce are of top quality and thus as little is done to them as possible. Techniques are sophisticated but flavours were meant to come across like how they were meant to be, or even better.

Top quality produce equates to flying them in from Europe, Japan and what not.
Think taxes, freight and so forth. Think- Will it be more expensive to fly to France for the identical meal or here?

What are your views?

5 comments:

  1. I like your last sentence. You were saying that "Will it be more expensive to fly to France for the identical meal or here". My question here is, do Singaporeans know what is 'Food Appreciation' ? To them, what they know about food is those from the "Coffee Shop" they like to call. Sad to comment that every place you'll find the same Food. Fine dining to them? Forget about it !!

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  2. Dave, I do agree with you to a certain extend. However, there is a small group of people here that do understand such food- the educated. With education comes knowledge and with that comes appreciation. It comes in a cycle, don't you agree? The local palate is not trained or accustomed to such cleanly executed dishes and thus at times, criticizing at the wrong moments. It is sad to know that some of these people are visiting these great establishments more to be seen than to savour the kitchen brigade's creations.

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  3. You are perfectly right Snob !! I've seen this happening most of the time and heard about it when I'm having conversation with groups of my friend here in Paris.

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  4. Yes Mich. Sometimes it just gets really annoying don't you think so? Look at Alain Passard. His dishes at L'Arpège are the simplest but probably the most flavorful, tasty and ethically prepared.
    It is a shame sometimes, it certainly is.

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  5. My question to Dave would be, what do you perceive as "Fine Food"? Does less food on the plate,avant garde techniques, or colourful plating, mean you'll enjoy it more than a good plate of Char Kway Teow (Singapore Fried Noodles) at a coffee shop. I guess its very individual. Although I enjoy "fine dining", I enjoy a good plate of hawker food just as much. And each should not be compared as they are great in its own right. People live and are brought up in different cultures and environment. One man's meat is another's poison. A person might enjoy Durian, and another might hate it as much. Does it mean that Durians are lousy fruits if you hate it?

    Ferran Adria once asked a crowd, "Why do people have coffee before eggs for breakfast, and eggs before coffee for lunch?" and "Why do westerners use a fork for spaghetti while asians use a pair of chopsticks for noodles?" Why can't it be the other way round?

    At the end of the day, it doesn't matter how or what food just into your stomach, so long as dining and what goes into your mouth makes you feel happy. (and it comes with many factors included; the environment, company of people, the moment, etc)

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